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  November 2008
   
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tedeschi Amarone 1996(magnum) -superb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Along with the half pig I got back in September, I got the head- I don't think many others seem to go the whole hog (apologies- though what is the derivation of the phrase?). Bath chaps described in the fabulous 'Nose to Tail Eating' (Fergus Henderson) was what I really felt an urge to do to give it justice. This involves boning out the skull and the 'face' is then rolled with the tongue. My old style razor came in handy for removing bristles. With mine I just brined the head and tongue unrolled and then rolled it the following day packed with parsley. Since it was pretty loose and the eye holes amongst others would allow loss of contents, I rolled it in muslin to keep its shape.

Passing my exit exam, which should be 'it' in terms of life exams, gave me an excuse to have some folk round and a few brave souls seemed keen on the cranial gastronomic foray. Since some of the enthusiasm seemed luke warm I thought a few other chunks of meat in the pot would appease the squeamish, and lo, we have bollito misto, which is of course mixed boil.

I recently visited George whom offered a cockerel, dead or alive. Unfortunately we have neighbours so it had to be the former, but this would of course be perfect. George duly despatched a beast. I haven't witnessed the demise of an animal since I saw a pig shot in the head and butchered at my mate Terry's farm when I was about ten. Odd. Hung it, feathered and drawn. God it takes a long time.

Alastair Little advises against starters or main courses with a BM, but I really wanted to serve the brain in a terrine. I can't remember using pigs liver before, but I think that using 60-70% as the base of a terrine as I did, is far too much. Certainly as a starter, where it really was too robust. In fact, the layer of brain was a relief. Some toasted rye flour bread made with cucumber dill juice (Dan Lepard)- bizarre and delicious. A shot of vodka was a fine way to start a meal.

Along with the cockerel a small piece of beef shin went into the pot along with a large parsnip some leek tops and carrots. Five hours did the trick, though maybe slightly too long for the cockerel.

So, what condiments to accompany the feast? Salsa verde is a must, but should it be just that?  Controversial, and the choice is very much a regional thing in Northern Italy. Salsa rosso is another must, but how can you make that in Northern Scotland- my preserved tomatoes and peppers are lacking somehat. I chose the walnut, honey, mustard and vinegar suggested in Claudia Roden's Italian food book, which seemed very Roman. I also created a sauce of chopped preserved lemon with chopped fresh and dried chilli, and some toasted fennel. Boiled potatoes and Fergus Hendersons baked neeps (layered with fried onion and some sage) accompanied.

A meringue cake with slightly aseasonal raspberries for pud. I was going to do suet pudding, but I think people may have exploded.