I had taken a pheasant out from the freezer to use in my pot au feu/ bollito misto/ cock-a-leekie effort last month. Five on the guest list made it somewhat redundant, so back it went. It was also pretty damn high, and might have dominated the rest of the pot. Back out again today, and illegally half defrosted I stuck it in the chicken brick with a carrot, an onion and a slug of white burgundy dregs. Scouring the shelves my preserved lemon leapt out. What a fine thing to deal with the pongy plucker. Actually it wasn't that high, but still. Just half the lemon- a quarter within the cavity and a quarter outwith. Rory's portion wasn't really done enough, but 2 hours later and it was divine, bronzed on top, and smelling just fab. Some couscous steamed plain with a little olive oil and carrots cooked with honey. Rory ate most of these so they went into the sauce with the mashed up lemons and juices. A grated carrot salad, with orange juice and toasted sesame seeds. Just sublime washed down with old favourite Domaine de Piaugier, Sablet.